Juan Gomez 21 Jan 2005

What do you use Dawn?? many clear coats out there..

Patrick Miller 21 Jan 2005

I use Grumbacher gloss spray damar varnish. However...I am unsure if that is cool to use on acrylics as well. But when I go in to the store to get some I see another type of spray varnish that Grumbacher makes that is specifically designed for acrylics. But since acrylics are a polymer...I would suppose that spray polyurethanes would work as well. They have formulations now that are non yellowing.....I know....all this typing just to say that I don't have a clue.... :)

Nice table by the way....

Dawn Schmidt 21 Jan 2005

Juan, I've been bouncing from product to product lately, and just wanted some input. Some of the product I used years ago when I did my first paintings have since "aged" and become slightly yellowed, but it's okay because they were ugly paintings that no one would want anyhow!! LOL The yellowing is kind of cool if you're going for an old masters look, but not when I want to maintain vibrancy in my work.

Sometimes use spray on small pieces(uses waaaay too much), most times roll it on with a roller for a much more even coating, then smooth with a brush. I prefer a satin finish - gloss makes the art too difficult to see. I use a supposedly "non-yellowing" polyurethane from a can (sorry I can't think of the brand name off the top of my head without running to my supply cupboard).

Patrick, you bring up a good point about the paint being a polymer...there is a whole science to paint products that new artists usually don't take the time to learn...UNTIL they ruin a painting because of it. :) I'm off to paint - I'll check back later tonight. Thanks for the input, gentlemen.

Dawn Schmidt 21 Jan 2005

On this four-foot-square rolling tea table, I used a two part epoxy for a really thick, durable surface since it was going to be outdoors on a lanai.

Gordon Szczubelek 21 Jan 2005

Dawn, I have been kicking this around for a couple of years now. Years ago I would use the polymer medium dilluted with 50% water. Put that in a small glass and spray it on with a mouth atomizer. Polyurethane is scary sometime because it is so thick. I put some on my large triptych 15 years ago and I can see where it has worn off in places. I would call the Liquitex Corporation directly (888)-4-acrylic and ask what should be used in what situation and how it should be applied correctly and smoothly. In fact I will call them right now.

Will let you know...

Gordon Szczubelek 21 Jan 2005

Dawn, By the way ...nice heron table.

Gordon Szczubelek 21 Jan 2005

The liquitex technical division extention is 7249. No one was available when I called. But it was after 5pm.

Sean Lynch 21 Jan 2005

Well,I use water based(not oil)poly.It works very well for me and gives pieces especially done on wood,a bit of a 3D effect.I usually put about 5 thin coats on in smooth strokes with a sponge brush.Nice painting Girlie!!!

Dawn Schmidt 21 Jan 2005

Thanks for the comments on my heron bird table, and Gordon, you are a peach for thinking of calling Liquitex...I also have a sneaking suspicion they are going to strictly suggest their products. But their info will be quite useful, I'm sure.

Sean, I adore that lighter case - everytime I see it, I want to jump up there and grab it from you! *reaches upwards, but caaan't quiiiite reaaach it*

((Gordon, thank you for your fur painting tips for me a while back, too, as I am in the process of painting a very furry mammoth for an Archeology Society commission right now!))

Wade Harrison 21 Jan 2005

very nice table dawn!

Binky Hawkinson 22 Jan 2005

Dawn that illustration ( painting ) is very beautiful and has so much real life qualities I really like your art

Ric Strange 22 Jan 2005

I use brush on Damar , Winsor & Newton , on oils anyway - which is most of what I do until lately. I've been experimenting with house paint - latex - and really don't know whether to use Damar on them or not beings they are water based . Will have to research it . I use flat latex so I would really like to keep them with a flat finish . The brush on Damar with oils is tricky - you have to start at the top working across not missing anything , then drop down and repeat until at bottom, if you missed a spot and try to go back and fix it . its sticks out like a sore thumb . Brush out thin , work quickly ,side to side - top to bottom - one shot deal . I've ruined complete pieces thinking I could go back a couple of minutes later and touch up ....live an try to learn .

Dawn Schmidt 22 Jan 2005

Wow, Ric, that Damar sounds like when we would airbrush the boats! When we would do the clear coat (and these are catalyzed finishes), we'd have to do it all in one shot (very difficult on a 40' boat!). If you let any part of the clear coat start to dry before we painted the next "row", you would see lines. What a major pain in the butt, but made for a suface like glass. We had to work soooo fast, using a scaffolding attached to a forklift, and try not to get the air hoses caught while spraying as neatly and as quickly as possible.

God forbid you'd get a hose clog because the previous painter didn't clean the guns good enuf - boy, oh boy, the fur would FLY!!!

Thank for your thoughts everyone.

Andrea Anderson 27 Jan 2005

You know, I wonder about that, myself. My paintings usually don't stick around long enough for me to know the answer to the question. I use glossy medium varnish and I like it. I have tried the matte varnish and can't stand it. But, I do wonder how long it stands up. I have heard that acrylic varnish can be removed and re-applied without ruining the painting. Would be interesting to know if anyone has tried that.

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